Tale of a tomb

April 22, 2014

Mausolus married his sister Artemisia. He ruled a small kingdom on the west coast of Turkey. At the time the family were Satraps of Persia around 400 to 300 BC and in order to keep the power and influence close, it was customary to marry within the family. All the ruling brothers did, genetics notwithstanding. When he became king he moved his capital to where Bodrum is today. He spoke Greek, loved all things Greek, and all he built throughout his kingdom was heavily influenced by beautiful Greek designs. Particularly his tomb.

Built overlooking the blue waters where the Aegean meets the Mediterranean his tomb took so long to construct it was only completed after his death. Artemesia, wracked with grief, sped up the stone work, employing only the best cutters in the world, spending vast amounts of the tax payers' money in so doing. Scopas, who built the Temple of Artemis at Ephesus came south to help, so the tomb had the look of a temple about it. Stairs with stone lions on guard climbed to a courtyard beneath which was the sarcophagus chamber. The courtyard was guarded on four corners by stone warriors on horseback.

Up rose the tomb to a great height in massive square blocks decorated in ornate reliefs offset with columns. High on the tomb top massive stone statues of Mausolus and Artemisia was placed, their chariot into the Netherworld, led by four horses. When Artemesia died of grief and loss not long after Mausolus’s death their bodies were placed in a sarcophagus in the burial chamber. The stairs to the sarcophagus were blocked by a double door of white marble. Offerings were placed on the stairs: raw butchered meat from many different animals, alabaster jars of perfume, fine pottery, ivory and semi precious stones.

So amazing was the tomb that sightseers came from far and wide to visit. It came to be known as one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. From this large beautiful tomb we get our word, Mausoleum.

But there are almost no remains today, apart from fallen shards and column pieces and the deep indentation of the tomb chamber, for when the Knights of the Hospitallers with their headquarters in Rhodes, were tightening their hold on this part of the world, they strengthened Mausolus’s Castle, further down the hill, robbing stone from his beautiful tomb. Though pirates had been there before them, robbing it clean.

Bodrum Castle is today a museum, filled with artefacts from sunken ships: exquisite ancient glass and a massive variety of amphorae used as the shipping containers of old, for wine, olive oil, grains and seeds. It is a big, blocky stronghold with many ancient stairs and towers with views in all directions, just as Mausolus planned. From here he could see every ship in the surrounding waters.

Today, on the grounds of Mausolus’s city, Bodrum’s shores are lined with expensive boats so closely moored that you can barely see the sea. Endless masts and rigging interrupt the view. Expensive blinding white homes line narrow little streets and lanes, some for sale for 15 million Turkish Lira. Smart restaurants and nautical boutique shops abound.

Bodrum today is the playground of the international rich and famous. But, come to think of it, given Mausolus’s taste and predilictions it quite possibly was, even then.

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